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AROMAS OF THE DIFFERENT COUNTRIES

On counters of shops it is possible to meet perfumery from the most different corners of a planet - from France and America to Japan and even Brazil. Than the perfumery of the different countries and what its characteristic lines differs? In perfumery usually allocate two largest "camps" - the French and American perfumery.

France often name the queen of perfumery art. Basic difference of the French perfumery from all the others is its rich history: in France, in small town Grass, in XVII century manufacture of has begun that now we names perfumery. The French perfumery tradition assumes three-stage development of aroma (at first the top note, then the heart note, then base). Long since in France spirits were considered as the major intimate accessory, therefore the French perfumers try to develop aroma so that in a combination to a skin of one person it revealed a little differently, than on a skin of another. The most known French perfumery house is, perhaps, Chanel with their best seller Chanel №5.

Prior to the beginning of 60th years the American spirits are noted by influence of the French samples. The American perfumery tradition as independent style has developed in the middle of the XX-th century, with occurrence in the market of firms Elizabeth Arden and Estee Lauder. The American spirits on all smell practically equally and they do not have division into steps (note). It is pleasant to much, aroma seems to more integral, therefore recently the American tradition became so influential, that more and more a French perfume are carried out in this style (Angel from Thierry Mugler, Organza Indecence from Givenchy and many other things). But is at the American tradition and many opponents asserting, that such perfumery is too primitive. But, nevertheless, she is a hostage of the country and in many respects reflects the American way of life where hardly probable not on the first place not only men, but also at women since 60-s' years had a career. Aromas for Americans should be: 1) proof to sustain the long working day, 2) convenient in use (Americans, unlike Frenchwomen, not so love concentration "spirits", preferring the big sprays with парфюмированной or scented water), 3) strong enough, bright that even in a spacious premise the woman could declare aroma itself. To these principles Americans are true and now more often, we will recollect such vivid examples of perfumery of the USA, as 5th Avenue from Elizabeth Arden, Romance from Ralph Lauren, Tommy Girl from Tommy Hilfinger.

 

Except French and American, there is also a number not such influential, but not less original and interesting perfumery traditions. The Italian perfumery which developed in parallel with French is very old, and much at it has borrowed. But last 20 years it began to gravitate to the American perfumery tradition more. Italians most of all like to let out deep, often very sweet aromas, preferring flower and fruit notes, and also spices. Such aromas are considered very sexual and raising. A characteristic example of the Italian perfumery - aromas Dolce&Gabbana from the perfumery house with the same name, Laura by Laura Biagiotti, Versace Woman from Gianni Versace. Interestingly how in the Italian perfumery traditions and the present get on. While the majority French and American perfumery houses speak about the century history, Italians are proud of that their company is young and modern also its perfumery has no anything the general that was earlier (really, in 2003 in Italy scented water with a pizza smell) has been let out. On the other hand, they skilfully use the perfumery tradition which has found reflexion in unsurpassed feeling of beauty and style. The concept "beauty" developed in Italy centuries and has been closely connected with such spheres as a sculpture, painting, the literature.

The expensive author's perfumery in Germany has appeared only in the late seventies. The German perfumery tradition, short of причаcтности to cologne history, has developed in many respects thanks to occurrence in Germany such design firms, as Escada, Jil Sander, Joop! The German perfumery, as a rule, avoids prevalence of fashionable flower aspects and more and more clearly develops own unique handwriting. It is difficult to tell, it is closer to what tradition - the French or American, accurate line is not present, but quality is available. We will recollect such spirits, as Escada Sentiment, Pure from Jil Sander, Chloe Innocence from Chloe.

The Japanese perfumery became widely known only with a recognition of the Japanese designers of clothes, and also with the increased popularity of mark Shiseido. As Japanese are usually smothered very little (and many at all do not use perfumery, including it a bad form), their creations are always reserved. In the Japanese language there is such word - "ваби". It is difficult to translate it, but it is possible to experience, when you touch to thin, in the aesthetic relation, a thing. Ваби is a sensation of the harmony hidden in simplicity. Ваби is and in the Japanese perfumery. It does not look in an European way smart, but thus very expensive, and is not casual.

 

In the Japanese cosmetic shop the person can admire hours as in a museum, refined lines like simple jars and bottles, to inhale delicate aromas of spirits as if they for this purpose and are intended - to admire and enjoy... In Japan long since were able to notice and appreciate beauty every instant! As a rule, the Japanese aromas are flower, tsvetochno-oceanic, green or ozone spirits, is more rare wood, but almost absolutely are not present sweet, east. We will recollect spirits Kenzo, Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto. We will notice, that speaking about perfumery Kenzo, we perfectly realise, that there lives the designer to France and spirits for it the philosophy and the approach to business, the general style all the same special, inseparably linked with Japan do in the same place, as well as for other Japanese designers, but.

All these traditions are rich and are in own way interesting. It is not necessary to prefer only to the French or American spirits. You can show the bent for to experiments, having bought German or Japanese perfume or to surprise the friends with the Italian perfume.

 

9.05.05